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Assemble your rafter halves into trusses using plywood gusset plates. Apply a thin layer of construction adhesive to the backside of each plate, then align it with the joint where two rafter boards and press it firmly into place. Secure the plates by driving nails or wood screws through the plate on either side. Attach the end rafters to the wall plates of your shed frame. Lower the first rafter truss into place at either the front or back of the shed. Fasten the truss by driving 8D finishing nails at an angle down through the board just above the birdsmouth notch and into the underlying wall plate.

Use 3 nails for each side. This will help hold your end trusses upright while you focus on positioning on the wall plates. Run a string between your end trusses to help you set the other rafters. Drive a nail straight down into one of your rafter peaks and wrap the string around it a few times.

Pull the string taut and anchor it around a second nail on the opposite end of the shed. The string will serve as a visual guide to help you make sure the rest of your rafters are set and centered correctly.

Pull your centering string tight enough to be perfectly straight, but not so tight that it places strain on your end rafters. Set your remaining rafters using your centering string for reference. Work your way from one end of the shed to the other putting your rafter trusses in place and checking their alignment against the string. Part 3. Cover your rafter trusses with plywood sheathing. Put down your first sheet of plywood at the corner of one end of the roof.

Drive a nail into each corner of the plywood to hold it in place temporarily. Measure and cut additional plywood to fill in any gaps in the sheathing. Try to cover the remaining space using as few pieces as possible, starting from the lower portion of the roof. A consistent grain pattern will increase the strength of your roof sheathing. Fasten your plywood sheathing to the rafters using 8D finishing nails.

Drive nails every 6 inches 15 cm through the face of the plywood and down into the rafter below. Work your way up the length of each rafter from the bottom edge. The combined strength of the OSB and supporting rafters will be capable of withstanding weights of up to several hundred pounds.

Cut fascia boards to finish the edges of your roof. Once you have the sheathing in place, your final task will be to mount fascia boards to cover the exposed ends of your rafters. Cut your 2 in 5. Fasten the fascia boards by nailing them to the end face of every other rafter using 8D finishing nails. For flat roofs, it will look best to install a fascia board on every side. When cutting your fascia boards, be sure to use the same size lumber as you did for your rafters to guarantee an exact fit.

Part 4. Attach strips of felt roofing paper for baseline protection. Gradually unroll the paper across the rooftop, stopping to add more staples every 1—2 feet 0. Depending on the size of your roof, you may need to cut excess paper from the end of each strip using a straightedge and utility knife. Double-check that your roofing felt is straight, flush, and wrinkle-free before stapling it down. Roofing felt can be used on its own as a cheap and easy surfacing solution or as a preliminary substrate for attaching asphalt shingles.

Install asphalt shingles on your roof for an attractive traditional look. Cut several full-sized shingles in half widthwise with the aid of a straightedge and utility knife and nail them along the bottom edge of your roof. These will serve as a starter strip. Proceed to install the remaining shingles from bottom to top in rows offset by 1 tile's width. Secure each shingle at the top using three 1 in 2. Make sure the top and bottom of each row overlap by 2 inches 5. Put in a corrugated metal roof for a more durable, customizable option.

Cut your sheet metal to size using tin snips, power shears, or an electric nibbler tool. Lay out each section vertically, so that the ridges slope toward the ground—this will create runoff. Fasten each sheet by driving sharp metal roofing screws into both sides of the ridges down the length of the underlying rafter. One of the biggest downsides of metal roofing is that the surface is vulnerable to rust and corrosion, which means it will need need to be painted over every years in order to maintain its appearance.

Try out EPDM rubber roofing for a simple and inexpensive covering. Load a paint roller with high-strength construction adhesive and brush the glue onto your plywood substrate in 3—5 ft 0. Then, pause and unroll enough rubber sheeting to fit over the glued area. EPDM is sold in large rolls that are designed to be draped over a roof in a single sheet and cut to fit.

You can usually pick up a 10 ft 3. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Related wikiHows How to. How to. Expert Interview. More References About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: Updated: August 16, Categories: Building Roofs Sheds. Article Summary X To build a shed roof, you'll need rafter boards, plywood gusset plates, plywood sheathing, felt roofing paper, and shingles.

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